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Mt. Yonah
The climbing at Mount Yonah occurs on the granite brow that sits just below the summit on the south west side of the mountain. Climbs roll gently to the top, there is a fair bit of friction climbing. There are also sections of juggy face as well as a few cracks. Some two pitch climbs ascend to the top 200 ft. above, but most routes are easily short enough to be top roped. The area was bolted years ago by the US Army Rangers who occasionally train on the mountain. They've strung cables across portions of the cliffs to make setting top rope anchors convenient. In places, they've spray painted numbers, arrows, anchors on the rock to identify climbs. It is possible to use the cable in the Army Routes B section to ascend and rig climbs without leading.
The top of the mountain weeps water down many of the climbs for a day or two after a heavy rain. Army Section A stays wet for a while, Army Section B dries much faster. If it's been raining heavily, most of the popular routes will be wet.
Location
Mount Yonah is located in the Chattahoochee National Forest between Cleveland and Helen in northeastern Georgia, closest to the town of Helen . The mountain is located a few miles south of town off State Route 75. You can see the bald brow near the mountain top on the right side of the road about 4 miles north of Cleveland from the West Family Restaurant parking lot. Though Mt. Yonah is located in the public Chattahoochee National Forest, there is no public road access to the mountain top. It is completely surrounded by private property owners who prevent vehicular access by gating the Yonah Mountain road. There is a sign over this road explaining the access restrictions that will help identify it. The Yonah Campground is located on the right next to the access road (it's private, you can't camp here, members only), Yonah Crafts is located across the street from the access road. You are free to park in the tiny area under the power lines this side of the gate and walk in 2.7 miles up a gravel road to the primitive Army campground. Plan on 45 min to 1 hr. of walking (there are rumors of locals sometimes giving you a lift, but I wouldn't bet on it). From the campground, you must scramble up trails to the base of the cliffs, then out across a slopey slab to the main climbing areas.
Gear
50 meter ropes adequate. A light rack will do. Top ropes can be anchored to the cables easily enough, bring a few pieces of gear to back them up.Watch out for old and dangerous bolts.
Facilities
It's pretty obvious access is a sensitive issue here. Don't try to drive the access road, you'll get trapped between gates. The campground at the end of the Yonah Mountain Road has a couple Port-o-lets. The are signs directing you to the various climbing areas. The Army Rangers from Camp Merril train here occasionally, and have control over the cliffs when they are present. . To avoid conflicts, call SGT First Class Hyde
at 706-864-3327 or 3367 extension # 230. No water is available at the campground or on the mountain. Pack out all trash.
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